After a refreshing overnight stay in magical Elfin Cove, we set off early to traverse Icy Strait, making our way to Bartlett Cove to embark on our Glacier Bay journey. Throughout our five days in the National Park, we were treated to stunning mountain vistas, awe-inspiring waterfalls, a magnificent tidewater glacier, abundant wildlife, and even took the opportunity for a scenic bike ride to Gustavus.

As we navigated the stunning waters of Icy Strait, we reached the awe-inspiring Glacier Bay, with our initial stop being Bartlett Cove, just four miles from the mouth of the bay.

Bartlett Cove is an estuary of the Bartlett River that extends northeast for 3.2km from the eastern shore of Glacier Bay in Glacier Bay National Park & Preserve.

The southern shore of Bartlett Cove is a glacier outwash plain that once supported a Tlingit village and early Euro-American settlers.  

Named after Charles C. Bartlett, a wealthy businessman from Port Townsend who purchased property on the bay in 1884, this cove serves as the main hub for the Park Service, housing a Ranger Office and an Entry Station, as well as providing comfortable lodging and camping options.

The Park Service has developed a pier, small craft floats, and a fuel float to enhance visitor access, and the knowledgeable Park Rangers are on hand to offer vital information about anchorages, ice conditions, regulations, and any restrictions, as certain areas of the National Park may have limited access.

It is essential to attend an in-person information session before travelling farther north into the park, and we dedicated a couple of hours to this on our first day in the park prior to embarking on our explorations.

We spent five unforgettable days exploring the National Park and Preserve, reveling in the breathtaking views of snow-capped mountains and the thrill of spotting wildlife. Each night found us anchored in secluded spots, where the gentle sounds and fresh scents heightened our senses, immersing us in the serene quietude of our surroundings.

This remarkable experience was made even more magical by the unexpected opportunities we had to sail, allowing us to connect deeply with the beauty of the landscape.

Glacier Bay National Park stands as a stunning testament to nature’s raw beauty and ecological significance, stretching over three million acres of rugged mountains, dynamic glaciers, lush temperate rainforests, wild coastlines, and deep fjords. As a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it serves as a living laboratory of glacial activity and a vital sanctuary for species such as humpback whales, sea lions, sea otters, mountain goats, and a diverse array of birds. Whether sailing its pristine waters or hiking its scenic trails, Glacier Bay draws you into the heart of the Alaskan wilderness.

South Marble Island, a remote limestone outcrop in Glacier Bay, Alaska, has been free of glacial cover for less than 200 years, during which it has evolved into a crucial habitat for a wide variety of seabirds and marine mammals.

This island serves as a haul-out site for numerous Steller Sea Lions and is home to several nesting colonies of endangered bird species. Among its avian residents are Pigeon Guillemots, Pelagic Cormorants, Glaucous-winged Gulls, Black-legged Kittiwakes, Tufted Puffins, and Black Oystercatchers, highlighting the island’s rich biodiversity.

Notably, the Tufted Puffins are among Glacier Bay’s most captivating (and one of our favorite) inhabitants, with their striking beaks and playful behaviors as they nest on the rocky cliffs and gracefully dive into the ocean to catch fish.

Mountain goats are a remarkable presence in the park, thriving in the steep, rocky cliffs and alpine regions, especially in the mid-to-upper bay area. These resilient animals are perfectly adapted to their rugged environment, sporting thick white coats and specialized hooves that enable them to traverse the challenging terrain with ease. While they can be elusive, spotting them on the cliffs added an element of excitement to our visit. 

Our final day in the park found us anchored back in Bartlett Cove, and after unloading our bikes, we set off to explore Gustavus. This quaint town near Glacier Bay blends small-town charm with breathtaking scenery.

Recently, its population has experienced significant growth, now reaching 655 residents, which represents an impressive 48 percent increase, making it one of Alaska’s fastest-growing communities.

Just 13 kilometers away, Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve is vital to the local economy, providing a range of job opportunities from Park Rangers and maintenance staff to roles in administration and law enforcement.

While in Gustavus, we visited the local hardware store, checked out the boat yard, and enjoyed happy hour at a nearby restaurant.

Although we had hoped to encounter a moose on our 37-kilometer bike ride, our only find was an abandoned plane wreck hidden in the woods.

Rushing back to avoid an impending storm, we ultimately ended up in the rain, but the day was filled with unforgettable experiences.