Mirror Harbor & White Sulphur Springs

As we navigated the complex waters of the Fleming Channel and the entrance to Mirror Harbor we remained alert to the challenges posed by its narrow and turbulent course while steering clear of the concealed rocks that lay beneath the surface. Known for its significant tidal fluctuations, Alaska generates formidable currents, particularly in these tight waterways. To ensure a safe passage, we strategically timed our transit for slack water, ideally aligning with high water slack, to reduce the effects of the currents and relied heavily on our charts.

With Alex at the helm and me stationed on the bow, we deftly maneuvered through the kelp infested, rocky labyrinth and anchored securely in the protected waters of the west arm of the harbor.

Once the anchor was down we launched the dinghy and established a stern tie to the shore to prevent drifting towards the rocks that emerge at low tide, where the harbor’s environment dramatically shifts with the ebb and flow of the tides.

After securing our boat in the tranquil waters of Mirror Harbour, we were unexpectedly visited by a magnificent grizzly bear. This remarkable creature, driven by its natural curiosity, made its way to the shore right beside the boat, not even ten minutes after Alex had finished tying up the stern line. The bear took a moment to sniff around the rope and the sturdy tree to which it was anchored, clearly intrigued by the new scents in its environment. With a graceful gait, it then ambled along the beach, leisurely grazing on the foliage that lined the shore, creating a breathtaking scene that highlighted the beauty and wildness of this pristine location.

We had one other encounter during our stay at Mirror Harbor while out in the dinghy exploring the various arms. The grizzly wandered the shore, seemingly indifferent to our presence just off the bay’s edge. After a long period of marvelling at the impressive size of this creature, we couldn’t resist the urge to provoke some excitement and began making playful calls towards him. However, he remained disinterested, which was probably for the best, considering bears can swim at speeds up to five miles per hour (and run 35 miles per hour).  Although our dinghy is equipped with a powerful twenty-horsepower motor that could have whisked us away in a pinch, the thought of an exhilarating chase added an exciting thrill to the encounter.

In this area, we’ve learned there are three types of bears: the Curious or Investigative bear, the Startled or Defensive bear, and the much rarer Predatory bear. If you’re going to come across a bear, you certainly want it to be the first type.

White Sulphur Hot Springs, set against the breathtaking backdrop of the Tongass National Forest on Chichagof Island, features a charming cabin available on a first come, first serve basis along with both outdoor and sheltered bathing experiences.

Our trek from Mirror Harbor led us along a muddy path through the verdant forest for about a mile, and we felt a sense of relief not to encounter any bears during our journey. We were fortunate to enjoy the springs in solitude, relishing an hour and a half of tranquil relaxation before returning to the dinghy for a quick ride back to our boat.

Originally constructed in 1916 by hunters, trappers, and miners, the cabin and bathhouse have been thoughtfully restored twice, in 1966 and 2013, and previously operated as a health spa. The bathhouse offers stunning views of the Pacific waves crashing onto the rocks in the bay, while the beach is great for a for low-tide stroll.  The bathhouse and outdoor pool are maintained at a soothing 117°.

Chichagof Island, a vast expanse of natural wonder, stretches 75 miles long and 50 miles wide, making it the fifth largest island in the United States. Named after Admiral Vasili Chichagov, this island is steeped in history, though the admiral himself never set foot here. The island’s rugged coastline spans 742 miles and is home to the densest population of bears per square mile on Earth. Nestled within the Tongass National Forest, Chichagof Island offers a unique blend of adventure and tranquility.