Sailing Alaska: Birds, Burgers & Boardwalk Charm

After a couple of relaxing days soaking in the hot springs and peaceful vibes of Bailey Bay, we hoisted anchor and made our way to Margaret Bay for a quick overnight stop. Tucked into the forested shoreline of Behm Canal, Margaret Bay felt like we had the world to ourselves. We stretched our legs with a short hike up to the bear viewing platform at the Margaret Creek fishway. Sadly, we were just a bit too early to catch the salmon run—and the bear buffet that comes with it. It’s definitely one of those “we’ll have to come back in August” kind of spots.

Even without the bear feeding frenzy, the hike was beautiful and the forest felt like something straight out of a fairytale—mossy, quiet, and full of that earthy Alaskan smell you wish you could bottle. We have seen a few bears along the shoreline during our trip, which has been incredible (especially when you’re safely floating a few meters offshore). Watching a bear flip over rocks and forage for snacks in the intertidal zone while you sip coffee from the cockpit? Hard to beat.

From Margaret Bay, we sailed on to Ketchikan— our final stop in a bustling community before heading back into Canada. Known as “Alaska’s First City,” Ketchikan is often the first port of call for cruise ships and boats like ours making their way north along the Inside Passage. It’s also the salmon capital of the world—though again, we seem to be just a little ahead of the season.

Where we anchored in Ketchikan turned out to be ideal—tucked just a short five-minute dinghy ride from the marina’s loading dock, where we could tie up and feel totally comfortable leaving the dinghy for the day. Almost everything was within walking distance once ashore, which made exploring the town super convenient. As a bonus, the anchorage itself turned out to be an eagle hotspot, thanks to its prime position near a fish processing plant. At one point, we counted nearly 20 bald and golden eagles swooping, diving, and circling the boat, all competing for scraps from the plant. It was an absolutely wild sight—like being in the middle of an eagle airshow.

During our visit, we stopped in at the Totem Heritage Center, which houses an incredible collection of 19th-century totem poles rescued from nearby villages. The craftsmanship and stories carved into each piece were both moving and humbling—a real highlight of our time in town.

We had a great time wandering through the heart of town, especially Creek Street—a colorful, historic boardwalk perched on stilts over Ketchikan Creek. Once a lively red-light district, it’s now full of quirky shops, art galleries, and enough photo ops to make any sailor pause. The rainbow-painted houses and constant sound of water rushing below made it feel like a blend of history and whimsy.

We made a quick detour to Jellyfish Donuts, a small shop with seriously creative (and seriously delicious) treats. The donuts were undeniably tasty, but let’s just say the exchange rate gave us a bit of sticker shock—two donuts came to $18 Canadian! Worth it? Maybe. Memorable? Definitely.

Of course, no stop in Ketchikan is complete without grabbing a burger from Burger Queen (yes, it’s real, and yes, it’s delicious). After that, we popped into The Asylum Bar, which lives up to its name in the best way—fun, casual, and a great place to swap stories with locals and fellow travelers.

Now we’re prepping for one last night at anchor before crossing back into Canadian waters. It’s wild how fast the trip has flown by. From misty bays to unexpected bear sightings, Alaska has definitely worked its magic on us.

We’ll be back—for the bears, the salmon, and maybe just one more Burger Queen burger.