Hawaiian Paradise

Our final week in Hawaii was nothing short of magical. Hanalei Bay welcomed us with its stunning vistas and azure waters.

As we sailed along the Na Pali Coast, the dramatic cliffs and verdant valleys provided a captivating backdrop for our journey. 

Our time in Hawaii culminated in unforgettable experiences, from savoring local cuisine to making lasting friendships. The memories of this enchanting place will remain with us as we continue our voyage.

Kauai’s North Shore

Hanalei Bay

We set sail shortly after 0800 on April 29 from the industrialNawiliwili Harbor, charting our course northward to the stunning Hanalei Bay. As we glided along the coastline, we traversed 29 nautical miles over a delightful 5.5 hours, finally arriving at our breathtaking destination where we would fully embrace the enchanting beauty of Kauai’s north shores for the remainder of our stay in Hawaii.

Hanalei Bay boasts a stunning natural harbor on Kauai’s north shore, renowned for its magnificent scenery and deep historical significance, highlighted by the picturesque Hanalei Pier, a beloved gathering spot for the community. At the foot of the pier lies Black Pot Beach Park, featuring a spacious grassy area, named after a large black iron pot that was once utilized for cooking fish during the hukilau, a communal event where locals would gather in the bay’s shallow waters to haul in expansive fishing nets. Adjacent to Hanalei Pier is a gentle surfing break, while seasoned surfers venture directly from the pier to an offshore point break, which, particularly in winter, showcases some of the best and most reliable surfing waves in the world, along with impressive swells. The original wooden structure of Hanalei Pier was constructed in 1892 to facilitate the unloading of goods brought into Hanalei Bay by ship, including inter-island steamers that arrived monthly, prompting rice planters and shopkeepers to rush to the pier with their horse-drawn carts and wagons.

Dinghy Adventures

Hanalei River

We spent a delightful afternoon navigating the Hanalei River. Accessing the river involves skirting alongside the large reef on the bay’s west side, skillfully avoiding the surf break while following a series of buoys that guide you to the river’s entrance. We journeyed several miles upstream, admiring the picturesque farms, charming homes, and the iconic historic one-lane bridge that graces the riverbanks.

The Hanalei River is a crucial waterway that meanders through vibrant landscapes and diverse ecosystems. This tranquil river begins in the mountains and flows gracefully through the enchanting Hanalei Valley before reaching the Pacific Ocean. Historically, the Hanalei Valley was home to a thriving indigenous community known for cultivating taro, bananas, and breadfruit. The river’s wetlands remain integral to taro farming, a staple of ancient Hawaiian diets, with Hanalei Valley contributing significantly to the state’s taro production. In recognition of its historical, cultural, and natural importance, the Hanalei River was designated an American Heritage River by President Bill Clinton in 1998.

Majestic Horizons

Na Pali Coast

As we journeyed along the stunning Na Pali Coast, the splendor of the towering cliffs adorned with vibrant greenery left us in awe. The sunlight sparkled on the ocean’s surface, fashioning a mesmerizing blue expanse that seemed to stretch infinitely. We felt pure joy watching dolphins playfully swimming alongside our boat. This entire adventure was an exhilarating experience that will be etched in our memories for years to come.

The Na Pali Coast is a breathtaking stretch of coastline located on the north shore of the island of Kauai, renowned for its stunning cliffs, lush valleys, and dramatic natural beauty. This enchanting area is characterized by its steep emerald mountains cascading down to meet the azure waters of the Pacific Ocean, creating a mesmerizing landscape that attracts adventurers and nature lovers alike. With its rich history and vibrant ecosystems, the Na Pali Coast offers a unique glimpse into the island’s heritage and an opportunity to experience its unparalleled charm.

North to Alaska

Preparing for the Next Leg

As we prepare to set sail for Alaska, Alex has been diligently working on the final touches to ensure SV Inscrutable is ready for the challenges ahead. From meticulous inspections of the hull to fine-tuning the rigging, every detail has been attended to with precision. The engine has been serviced, and the sails have been checked for wear, ensuring that our vessel is in peak condition for the journey north. This preparation is not just about the mechanics; it’s about ensuring our safety and readiness for the adventures that await us in the Alaskan waters.

One final task on our checklist was to secure diesel and fuel. Given the limited facilities for sailors in Hawaii, we had to travel from our anchorage in Hanalei Bay to Princeville to fill our jerry cans. We initially intended to take an Uber, but upon reaching Hanalei, we quickly realized that finding one was more difficult than we anticipated. Walking was also not a practical option due to narrow roads and construction hindrances. With no other choices available, we opted to hitchhike to Princeville. A generous local offered us a lift to the village of Hanalei, but we still needed to make it to Princeville, where the nearest gas station was located. Thankfully, it was just a short wait of about 15 minutes before another vehicle stopped and gave us a ride, along with our four jerry cans, to our destination. Although it turned into an all-day endeavor, we ultimately secured an Uber for our return trip, allowing us to finally check this task off our list.

Last Nights in Hawaii

Nu’alolo Anchorage

Our final nights in Hawaii were spent anchored next to a massive reef at Alapi’i Point at the serene Nu’alolo anchorage, a place where time seems to stand still.  Nu’alolo is the only semi-protected anchorage along the Na Pali Coast and you need to be prepared to up and leave if the north swells pick up. For us, the weather and swells cooperated and Nu’alolo offered a perfect farewell to our Hawaiian adventure, leaving us with memories etched in the sands of time.

On shore, the ancient Hawaiian ruins at Nu’alolo provide a fascinating glimpse into the lives of the early Native Hawaiians who inhabited the area. This remarkable site reflects their rich cultural heritage, showcasing their agricultural practices, social structures, and spiritual beliefs that were intricately woven into daily life.  

The reef once provided nourishment for the fishing village that was connected to the farming village on the plateau above by a swinging ladder and trail up the face of the eastern cliff at Alapi’i Point. 

The fishing village was Nu’alolo Kai (of the sea) and the village on the plateau was Nu’alolo Aina (of the land). 

Reflections on Hawaii

A Magical Journey

Reflecting on our time in Hawaii, it’s hard to encapsulate the magic that this part of our journey has brought us. From the breathtaking landscapes of the Na Pali Coast to the vibrant community we found in Hilo Bay, each moment has been a treasure. We’ve forged friendships that will last a lifetime and experienced the joy of our wedding amidst this paradise. The adventures, both big and small, have woven a tapestry of memories that will forever hold a special place in our hearts. Hawaii has been a dream realized, a chapter of our journey that has enriched our lives beyond measure.

Moments from Hanalei Bay & The Na Pali Coast

Highlights of Our Hawaiian Adventure


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