An Epic Night of Sailing

Our adventure from Port San Luis to San Miguel Island was packed with excitement and hurdles as we maneuvered through thick fog, strong winds, and unforeseen challenges.

Setting Sail from Port San Luis

The Beginning of Our Night Voyage

With the main sail halyard pulley fixed, we left Port San Luis at 1230 on September 22, close hauled in a steady 9 knots of wind and under a clear sky. The calm sea set the perfect stage for our night adventure, and as we departed, we enjoyed a FaceTime call with family back home.

WAYPOINTS

By 1600, we were nearing the Pacific missile range under a steady broad reach, cruising at an average speed of 5.6 knots with overcast skies.

As we progressed southward, we passed four offshore oil platforms, and Platform Hermosa reached out to us over the radio, voicing their concerns about our closeness, even though we were well beyond the strictly enforced one-mile zone.

At 2230, we made the turn at Point Conception, often called the Cape Horn of the Pacific. The dense fog and distant fog horns from passing freighters created an eerie atmosphere. With 25 knots of wind on our stern, we faced challenges reefing the main sail, but managed to secure it safely.

Reefing the Main Sail

With 25 knots of wind at our stern, we made the decision to reef the main sail, a task that was supposed to be straightforward but quickly turned challenging. The lazy jacks let us down at a critical moment, complicating the process of lowering that troublesome main sail. Thankfully, Alex’s quick reflexes and strength proved vital in securing the sail and avoiding further complications – thank goodness for lifelines! Through a bit of teamwork, we managed to tuck the sail snugly in the gallows where it stayed for the night, what a relief!

Navigating Through the Fog

After fighting with the mail sail, we continued our journey through the dense fog towards San Miguel Island. As we approached Cuyler Harbor the fog remained thick, making it difficult to see the rocks and other anchored boats. Trusting our charts we found a safe spot and dropped anchor just before 0230. Exhausted but exhilarated, we celebrated our arrival with a well-deserved glass of spiced rum and then called it a night.

After a good night’s sleep, we were greeted by the tranquil beauty of Cuyler Harbor & San Miguel showing itself through the fog. Keen to paddle ashore and discover the treasures of San Miguel Island. The hiking trail had recently reopened following storm damage, some areas remained off-limits without a ranger due to the potential hazards of unexploded ordnance from the island’s past. As we journeyed across the island and explored the monuments and campground we noted the wind shelters designed for the campers, highlighting the strong winds that often sweep through. This island is also home to a unique species of small foxes, recognized as the smallest in North America and comparable in size to a house cat, with around 300 foxes calling the island home.

We were lucky enough to spot a fox along the trails ashore and to observe elephant seals lounging on the beach from our paddle boards, truly magnificent creatures. Elephant seal Males can reach lengths of up to 16 feet and weigh as much as 2,500 pounds, while females generally measure around 10 feet and can weigh up to 1,000 pounds.

San Miguel Island is the westernmost island of the Channel Islands and receives the brunt of the north-westerly winds, fog and severe weather from the open ocean. The cold, nutrient-rich water surrounding the 9,491-acre, eight-mile-long and four-mile-wide island is home for a diversity of sea life. Ranchers raised sheep from 1850 to 1948 on the island. Later the Navy used the island for a bombing range.

Today, native species are making a recovery in this sanctuary. Each year over 100,000 seals and sea lions breed and haul out on San Miguel.