Arriving in Petersburg felt like stepping into a quaint Norwegian village, with its charming architecture and welcoming atmosphere. We eagerly seized the opportunity to replenish our supplies, taking delight in the simple joy of grocery shopping amidst the local offerings. Our new Xtratuf boots, iconic Alaskan staples, quickly became a cherished addition to our travel gear, providing comfort and practicality for our adventures. We took the locals advice and enjoyed an amazing breakfast at the Salty Pantry.  It was a unique set up where you ordered from whatever was available at the window, ever-changing and so good. Petersburg’s captivating blend of culture and scenic beauty left an indelible mark on our hearts.  

We may have veered slightly off course, but there was no way we could pass through this breathtaking region without stopping at the LeConte Glacier, the southernmost tidewater glacier in the Northern Hemisphere. 21-mile (34 km) long and 1-mile (1.6 km) wide.

Our departure from Petersburg had to be meticulously timed with the tides and currents, which meant we didn’t set sail until early afternoon. The day was stunning, and as we made our way down Frederick Sound towards LeConte Bay, we were filled with a sense of anticipation. Approaching the bay, we spotted a trail of icebergs leading us forward like nature’s breadcrumb path. With the long Alaskan days on our side, daylight was not a concern, but we remained vigilant about the tide. Previously, we had journeyed to Baird Glacier by dinghy, but this time we were skillfully navigating our sailboat through a spectacular labyrinth of ice. With tides in Alaska reaching up to 20 feet, maintaining alertness was crucial. As we got closer to LeConte Glacier, the icebergs grew larger, and we spotted seals—mothers and their pups—perched on the ice throughout the maze. The sight of the glacier was breathtaking, and it was amazing to be surrounded by ice and so close to such a massive and ancient ice river. The sound of the icebergs brushing against the hull was both thrilling and nerve-wracking, akin to fingernails on a chalkboard. We carefully turned ourselves around in the ice after taking a moment to appreciate the view. The ice surrounds you and is constantly shifting, so finding a new way out of the bay is essential, but Alex skillfully navigated us through the ice, and we headed across the sound to Ideal Cove for the night. What an incredible day that was.